Showing posts with label hospitality. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hospitality. Show all posts

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Theme Week: Ghana

Over dinner last Sunday my friend Theis mentioned that he had been charged with orchestrating "Ghana week" along with two other teachers at the school where he works. I'm unsure of how often "theme week" happens but apparently it's a common thing in Danish schools. For a week kids are mixed up with all age groups together and study a given theme - Theis' school is doing countries, so off they go to Ghana. The two teachers Theis was working with seemed like perfectly great middle-aged ladies but they know precious little about Africa, let alone Ghana. Since Theis lived in Liberia for six months he is essentially the Ghana expert of the group. While he was telling me all this I realized that I actually know a Ghanian living in Copenhagen - from my masters program!

My classmate from Ghana, Festus, agreed to come in today and talk a bit about Ghana and his personal experience growing up there. He was extremely enthusiastic to be sharing about his home, which he hasn't been able to visit in quite a while because of the cost. I came along to support him but also to learn more about him and see a real live Danish primary/secondary school. The biggest differences I noticed had more to do with the fact that the school is in the middle of a city but I went to school in areas with plenty of space and land so nothing was more than one story and the play yards were huge. After the presentation one of the teachers came up to me saying, "I know you're from the US so I hope they are disciplined enough! I know it's different here but it's a special week, project week and we aren't as controlled here - I don't know, was it ok?" Of course I assured her the kids were great - and they were! the little ones squirmed - they're children - but they were all invested in what he was saying, asked specific questions and wanted to hang out with him afterwards.

I learned a great deal about Festus. There's something so raw about the way we tell stories to children - he very bluntly told us that he grew up in poverty becase his father died when he was seven. He is one of eight children and worked hard as a child selling yarn that his mother made to help send himself and his siblings to school. He had a great way of talking about very serious things like children working for their parents - or being forced to work in slavery but keeping it approachable and not-too-overwhelming for kids. Theis was translating the whole thing, which was fun for me to listen along to - I could understand almost all of it since he was speaking clearly and for children. I learned afterwards that Festus has worked in a middle school before. It really showed - he was an amazing story teller and clearly thrived being around kids.

Partway into Festus' talk a fidgety lil guy in front raised his hand and asked a question in way too squeaky a voice for me to understand. I did get, however, that he was pointing to his nose and looking at Festus inquisitively. Theis' translation to Festus was something along the lines of, "Matias here has just noticed that your nose is bigger than his and he's wondering why that is. I told him that it's very normal for some people to be taller, others shorter, some have black hair, some blond....etc" Fetus was so cute about it. He was clearly amused and told Matias that everyone from Ghana is black like he is and lots of people in Africa have bigger noses than in Denmark. I loved it - such an honest, uninhibited little question and open, kind response. Some other priceless questions:

Tech-interested Child: Do you have a cell phone?

Festus: Yes, and research shows there are more cell phones per capita in Somalia than anywhere else in the world!

Tech-interested Child: What kind of cell phone?  (later) Can I see your cell phone?

Education-equality minded Child: Is school difficult in Ghana?  (Festus has talked about how he had to save money to go to school and it was challenging)

Education-equality minded Child:  Why is it that you have to pay for school? How much do you have to pay for school?

Then my two favorites... Festus talked about the uniquely peaceful relations between religious and ethnic groups in Ghana. There are about 69 percent Christians, 14 percent Muslims and the rest traditional paganists. The Christians and Muslims invite each other along to their religious celebrations and both Christians and Muslims have national holidays. One little guy in front who had been a bit distracted throughout the talk got very interested and asked a question that, again, was too high-pitched for me to understand. Theis explained that he said that he is an Arab and he wonders if anyone celebrates Ramadan in Ghana like he does. He looked so fascinated listening to Festus talk about Ramadan in Ghana! Four kids in the class said they had celebrated Ramadan before when Theis asked for a show of hands. It was pretty entertaining for me to watch this whole interaction unfold just knowing Theis' political persuasions and support for multiculturalism - we were both lovin' it. The other favorite moment was an older girl - maybe 11 who asked where in Ghana Festus is from... it turns out her dad is from Ghana and her mom is from Denmark. From the sounds of it her family "acts Danish" in the sense that she doesn't speak any Ghanian language and it isn't as constant a part of her cultural life as Danish things are. She was a bit shy and hesitant talking to him but clearly entranced and so thrilled to meet someone else with Ghanian background.

Afterwards we toured around the school a bit and went out on the play ground. Festus saw a kid who clearly had West African background and shook his hand, asking him where he is from (in Danish). He was about 5 and either didn't get what Festus was trying to ask or didn't want to, saying simply, "I come from Denmark". Festus pushed further, asking where his dad and than mom is from (Guinea and Ghana respectively). It made me instinctively uncomfortable to watch the exchange because I would never ever ask a similar question myself in the US and just from knowing about the barriers to joining society that second generation Danes face. Of course coming from Festus it was a genuine attempt to connect and celebrate commonality. He also asked another little girl if she was from Ethiopia or Somalia and when she said Palestine he wasn't satisfied, insisting she was too dark. I tried to head off the conversation as he continued to ask her where her parents were really from. Luckily the bell was ringing and the kids dispersing. She's darker than we might expect a Palestinian girl to be but there's such a high potential to psychologically damage kids if you tell them they can't be from where they're from. Again, the big take away for me was that I'm used to an extremely different way of approaching race and color than what was happening there. Festus was coming from a place of simple curiosity and engagement and I learned a lot from observing his perspective on the interaction.

Throughout the visit I pondered ways in which Festus and I interact with Denmark and Copenhagen differently. Of course I could have said before that average Danes are more likely to assume I "belong" until I prove otherwise when I open my mouth to speak whereas they might assume he is a new immigrant until proven otherwise. He has certainly made a solid attempt to learn Danish but he also doesn't seem nearly as keen on fitting in as I am. That could have just as much to do with the fact that I fell for Denmark before I found my study program but it also must relate to the ways we're perceived and thereby experience the place.

All in all it was a fascinating and heartwarming visit! I miss being around kids, so that in itself was fun for me. I'm going to redouble my efforts in finding some kids who have parents that will pay for me to teach them English.

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

Because Hege said so:

Apparently I haven't been posting enough according to the tastes of my new friend Hege. She isn't really (sorry) my prime audience given that I get to see her on a regular basis. But I'll dedicate this post to her anyway.

Things are overall still going well. I have to remind myself that it's ok to be tired, to need alone time. I don't need the go-go-go attitude because I really want to settle in and make a happy sustainable life for myself. Copenhagen can be both an incredibly easy place to be and a really cold/rough place. I will write more about this when I have more energy... but in some ways I think the culture shock I'm having here strikes a different, perhaps more personal chord than it did for me in Thailand or India. I need to mull it over before I try to put it into words. Today I did have a great conversation with a Canadian who is also on my program and has been living in Copenhagen for over a year. She confirmed what I was feeling - which is always wonderfully reassuring. She has lived in Syria for six months and various other places as well.

While I ponder this.... some more photos of Nørrebro:




Facts about me:

The shampoo I use is called "Nordic Hair Care" and the tagline is: "Fint, Nordisk Hår - Hennot Pohjoismaiset Hiukset" That's Danish then Finnish for "Fine Nordic Hair!"

Last weekend I went to an "underground feminist year-end party" that a Danish classmate invited me to. I spent a lot of the weekend wandering around with my new friends and showing THEM places in Copenhagen - kind of a novel role reversal for me! I successfully managed to navigate us to this funky venue with wonderful stuff all over the walls and a nice vibe. Our friend from school wasn't there yet so we lingered outside for a bit but then dove in and danced for I think over two hours before she showed up, hahaha.... she was at a cousin's birthday party.

Last night I joined the HIA (Humanity in Action) Denmark Senior Fellows Board! I was unable to attend the general assembly at the end of the summer but had expressed interest in joining... I thought it wouldn't be possible so I was just showing up to hopefully be able to join on in some projects that need extra hands on. But turns out Linda, the President of the board and all around fantastic human who has the effect of calming everyone/thing around her, had already had adding me to the board as an agenda item. After the meeting I stayed out with a couple others, went to a cafe. It was cosy.

Had a roommate bonding night this weekend watching "Klokkeren fra Notre Dame" - the Hunchback of Notre Dame in Danish. Teehee. Mirjam (my roommate) also has Mulan and Parent Trap in Danish... and some other slightly more sophisticated stuff.

While wandering around Vanløse headed towards my friend's house to pick up the bike she is letting me borrow for the year, I made friends with a lovely older lady and her Westie!!! MOM, here's lookin at you. The Westie is 11 year old and his name is Tiko. We spoke for about 15 minutes, all in Danish! Which got me to thinking.... older people are often so patient. And less often great at English. And always a group of people I like being around. So my roommate suggested that I volunteer with the Red Cross in a sort of adopt-a-grandparent program they have. We'll see how much time I have.... but I think it could be really lovely.

Today a Danish student from my program and I made a pact to teach each other Danish/English! We're going to meet once a week and exchange lessons. She is already quite good at English (duh) but wants to expand her vocabulary and improve her writing. I need lots of help. We're going to start with pronunciation and general conversation. I also really like her so there's a not so hidden agenda of making friends... :)

Satisfied, Hege?

Some photos of my neighborhood:





This is my apartment building.

Thursday, September 6, 2012

TUSIND TAK DENMARK

I feel moved to thank the nation of Denmark. Thanking nations isn't something I do regularly, I must note. I tend to shy away from fierce displays of nationalism or dogmatism. I don't like it when any political leader says we live in "the best nation on earth" etc, etc because I think it's simply hyperbole and absurd. But... THANK YOU DENMARK. Thank you.

Earlier today I wrote about the Danish bureaucracy. And yes, it's frustrating and I won't take back any of my political commentary on it. Still, there are important fabulous things about Denmark that I want to highlight! Today when I received my Danish "CPR" number which will make me legal in Denmark for the next 2.5 years I was extremely surprised at my own emotional response. The woman handling my paperwork asked me a bit about the upcoming election while she processed my documents and before I knew it she was writing down phone numbers for the two doctors closest to my home address. She then gave me a little information on free government classes for learning Danish, wrote down the emergency phone number in Denmark for me and told me I should check in with either of those two doctors or call such and such nurse who is available 24/7 if I have any quick questions.

I didn't get it. Damn it I have been to Denmark for two five week programs about Danish society and studied Denmark for my thesis - and I just didn't understand. I have a mild medical condition that I need to take medication for daily. My insurance in the US has never covered it and I was worried that in Denmark they wouldn't want to send me to the doctor if I needed those pills. Timidly I asked... "I'm sorry if this is a silly question but... how much does it cost to go to the doctor?" The Borgerservice official stared at me with a look of pained sympathy, shaking her head. "It doesn't cost you anything in Denmark."

Health care. Legal residence. I'm not kidding - I almost teared up as I left the Borgerservice place.

Wednesday, August 29, 2012

I live in Denmark now...

Hello! I am writing from MY apartment in Denmark. That is a pretty nice feeling. It's clear to me how important it is to make this place feel homey and MINE. It is also clear that when you travel with two bags you do not have the possibility to create so much clutter. A novelty for me to be sure!

The trip here was great - made friends with two very eager SPU nursing students headed off for their European adventure. One very quietly confident and kind, the other a freaking spark plug. We spent about 15 minutes guessing each others' names at the gate in Seatac and then they ended up sitting right behind me on the flight to Reykjavik. Once in Iceland (WHAT A FUNKY PLACE EVEN FROM THE AIRPORT) I met an elderly woman from Edmonds who grew up in Norway and was off to visit relatives. Her granddaughter, my age, was traveling with her to help - and of course see Norway herself. I could feel that I was in the state of mind to meet people happily and openly.

When I landed in Copenhagen I headed straight for y friend's house.... but I underestimated how far it is from the metro. No matter, it was good weather for pulling a hundred pounds of luggage across the city. Many people - often Danes themselves - go on and on about how cold and stiff Danes are. In my personal experience that has never been quite the case. Yes, they don't want to grin at me on the metro and might not giggle and hug nearly as much as me, but those aren't the truest measures of warmth anyway. Emerging from the metro I boldly attempted to lug my bags up three flights of stairs... I made it about two steps before two middle aged women offered to grab one of my bags shortly followed by two groups of young people who carried the other. Clearly wondering why anyone needed that much stuff they asked where I was from. When I explained I was staying for graduate school they were so extremely excited and surprised. One of the ladies practically exclaimed as I was headed down the street, "Enjoy Denmark!!"

I will do my best.

Monday, July 9, 2012

Herzegovinian Heaven: Ljubuski

After touring Mostar we had the incredible honor of visiting our friend Marija's hometown, Ljubuski. It is about 45 minutes to an hour outside of Mostar fairly close to the Bosnia / Croatia border. I can't exaggerate the beauty of this country. Turquoise - actually vivid turquoise - rivers, dry hills and mountains covered in beautiful shrubbery and then luscious forests as well. Marija has an older brother, little sister, and little brother from ages 30ish to 15. They all live at home (along with Grandma) - it's the cultural norm in Bosnia to live with your parents until you're married. In part because it is far too expensive for young people to have their own places. For that reason people usually don't go too far away for University. For example, my friend from Banja Luka (the capital of the Serbian district of Bosnia) would have liked to go to Sarajevo for university but it was simply not an option. This economic reality serves to reinforce ethnic segregation.






Here is a panorama of Ljubuski that I found online...


Marija's family could not have been warmer, more generous, more welcoming. They sat us down for drinks and conversation. Then Marija took us to the river down the road from her home. They live in a pretty rural area - growing their own vegetables, raising chickens, pigs... so many amazing walks to take and tranquility to find. During the war this place wasn't as impacted directly. Though there really was no part of Bosnia that was unscathed at least emotionally, psychologically. For instance, there is a sizable community of refugees from the Srebrenica massacre living in Ljubuski now. And a much smaller percentage of Serb Bosnians in the area than before the war - so more segregation. It is remarkable to me to hear Marija speak about the war. She has said repeatedly that she wasn't that impact by the war like others because "my father and uncles went to battle - but they came home". I cannot imagine a life where there is a full out civil war in Seattle and my father leaves randomly for days to fight, kill, risk his life.






This is Marija at a waterfall in the area near Ljubuski. She was such a gracious host, wanting us to see the best of her corner of the world.



Marija's brother runs a beach bar/cafe alongside the river that is near her house. I'll post a photo soon! It's beautiful... I know I'm sounding like a broken record now... But there are little rapids that you can float down, the water is perfectly fresh, mountains along the horizon. Marija's brother absolutely refused to let us pay for ice creams. While we were there we ran into about half a dozen of Marija's cousins, her dad, and some aunts and uncles.




Photo of the Trebizat river that runs through the area...


We were running a bit behind after lunch but rushed back to the house to say goodbye to her mom and grandma.... change of plans! They madeus a bunch of dessert pancakes and homemade honey and of course we really couldn't say no. Hahaha... Marija is OBSESSED with bumble bees. We met one of her best friends, Marina, and one of the first things she asked us was, "Do YOU have to save the bumble bees on facebook too???"  Yes, yes I do.


All in all... I can't express how much it meant to me to meet Marija's family. I gained immeasurable respect for the levity, grace, and rebellious courage with which Marija leads her life. Ljubuski is gorgeous and loving but also certainly conservative. And Marija lives her life walking this balance of political awareness and care for her roots that I find absolutely extraordinary. Without a doubt I want to return to Ljubuski and see these amazing people again.