After touring Mostar we had the incredible honor of visiting our friend Marija's hometown, Ljubuski. It is about 45 minutes to an hour outside of Mostar fairly close to the Bosnia / Croatia border. I can't exaggerate the beauty of this country. Turquoise - actually vivid turquoise - rivers, dry hills and mountains covered in beautiful shrubbery and then luscious forests as well. Marija has an older brother, little sister, and little brother from ages 30ish to 15. They all live at home (along with Grandma) - it's the cultural norm in Bosnia to live with your parents until you're married. In part because it is far too expensive for young people to have their own places. For that reason people usually don't go too far away for University. For example, my friend from Banja Luka (the capital of the Serbian district of Bosnia) would have liked to go to Sarajevo for university but it was simply not an option. This economic reality serves to reinforce ethnic segregation.
Here is a panorama of Ljubuski that I found online...
Marija's family could not have been warmer, more generous, more welcoming. They sat us down for drinks and conversation. Then Marija took us to the river down the road from her home. They live in a pretty rural area - growing their own vegetables, raising chickens, pigs... so many amazing walks to take and tranquility to find. During the war this place wasn't as impacted directly. Though there really was no part of Bosnia that was unscathed at least emotionally, psychologically. For instance, there is a sizable community of refugees from the Srebrenica massacre living in Ljubuski now. And a much smaller percentage of Serb Bosnians in the area than before the war - so more segregation. It is remarkable to me to hear Marija speak about the war. She has said repeatedly that she wasn't that impact by the war like others because "my father and uncles went to battle - but they came home". I cannot imagine a life where there is a full out civil war in Seattle and my father leaves randomly for days to fight, kill, risk his life.
This is Marija at a waterfall in the area near Ljubuski. She was such a gracious host, wanting us to see the best of her corner of the world.
Marija's brother runs a beach bar/cafe alongside the river that is near her house. I'll post a photo soon! It's beautiful... I know I'm sounding like a broken record now... But there are little rapids that you can float down, the water is perfectly fresh, mountains along the horizon. Marija's brother absolutely refused to let us pay for ice creams. While we were there we ran into about half a dozen of Marija's cousins, her dad, and some aunts and uncles.
Photo of the Trebizat river that runs through the area...
We were running a bit behind after lunch but rushed back to the house to say goodbye to her mom and grandma.... change of plans! They madeus a bunch of dessert pancakes and homemade honey and of course we really couldn't say no. Hahaha... Marija is OBSESSED with bumble bees. We met one of her best friends, Marina, and one of the first things she asked us was, "Do YOU have to save the bumble bees on facebook too???" Yes, yes I do.
All in all... I can't express how much it meant to me to meet Marija's family. I gained immeasurable respect for the levity, grace, and rebellious courage with which Marija leads her life. Ljubuski is gorgeous and loving but also certainly conservative. And Marija lives her life walking this balance of political awareness and care for her roots that I find absolutely extraordinary. Without a doubt I want to return to Ljubuski and see these amazing people again.
Here is a panorama of Ljubuski that I found online...
Marija's family could not have been warmer, more generous, more welcoming. They sat us down for drinks and conversation. Then Marija took us to the river down the road from her home. They live in a pretty rural area - growing their own vegetables, raising chickens, pigs... so many amazing walks to take and tranquility to find. During the war this place wasn't as impacted directly. Though there really was no part of Bosnia that was unscathed at least emotionally, psychologically. For instance, there is a sizable community of refugees from the Srebrenica massacre living in Ljubuski now. And a much smaller percentage of Serb Bosnians in the area than before the war - so more segregation. It is remarkable to me to hear Marija speak about the war. She has said repeatedly that she wasn't that impact by the war like others because "my father and uncles went to battle - but they came home". I cannot imagine a life where there is a full out civil war in Seattle and my father leaves randomly for days to fight, kill, risk his life.
This is Marija at a waterfall in the area near Ljubuski. She was such a gracious host, wanting us to see the best of her corner of the world.
Marija's brother runs a beach bar/cafe alongside the river that is near her house. I'll post a photo soon! It's beautiful... I know I'm sounding like a broken record now... But there are little rapids that you can float down, the water is perfectly fresh, mountains along the horizon. Marija's brother absolutely refused to let us pay for ice creams. While we were there we ran into about half a dozen of Marija's cousins, her dad, and some aunts and uncles.
Photo of the Trebizat river that runs through the area...
We were running a bit behind after lunch but rushed back to the house to say goodbye to her mom and grandma.... change of plans! They madeus a bunch of dessert pancakes and homemade honey and of course we really couldn't say no. Hahaha... Marija is OBSESSED with bumble bees. We met one of her best friends, Marina, and one of the first things she asked us was, "Do YOU have to save the bumble bees on facebook too???" Yes, yes I do.
All in all... I can't express how much it meant to me to meet Marija's family. I gained immeasurable respect for the levity, grace, and rebellious courage with which Marija leads her life. Ljubuski is gorgeous and loving but also certainly conservative. And Marija lives her life walking this balance of political awareness and care for her roots that I find absolutely extraordinary. Without a doubt I want to return to Ljubuski and see these amazing people again.
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